Generel Information

General Information

Hvad er Paragliding?

What is Paragliding?

Der findes mange forskellige former for flyvning indenfor paragliding. Vindens opdrift udnyttes på skrænter og i Bjerge. Tow er optræk med et spil som trækker os op hvor de termiske bobler og opvinde kan udnyttes til at nå helt op til skyerne. Med en motor og propel spændt på ryggen er det muligt at starte fra landjorden. Først og fremmest er paragliding den billigste og sikreste måde at flyve på

There are many forms of flying with a paraglider. On hills and in mountains we use the the lift from upgoing winds. Tow with a car or scooter pulls us to heights where there the thermals can be used to reach the clouds.With an engine and prop on the back you can footlaunch and land allmost anywhere.By far the safest and cheapest way to fly

Hvem kan lære at flyve?

Who can learn to fly?

Næsten alle kan lære at flyve. Man skal være fyldt 15 år, før man kan påbegynde skoling, og man kan få udstedt certifikater fra det fyldte 16. år. Man skal være i nogenlunde form både fysisk og mentalt. I starten er det meget anstrengende at lære at flyve, men når først teknikken under groundhandling forbedres, bliver det meget let. I modsætning til anden flyvning stilles der ikke krav om lægeundersøgelse

Allmost anybody can learn to fly a paraglider. You can start learning at 15 but must be 16 to get licence. A good physic and health is needed at start before the tecnique gets better.

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Tow - Optræk

Tow

Tow "optræk" foregår på de mange flyvepladser-optrækspladser rundt i hele Danmark.Ved hjælp af et spil, som kan være scooter, bil, El eller Hydraulic, trækkes piloten op i 350-700m højde. Derefter gælder det om at finde termiske opadgående vinde så man kan blive svævende som de store fugle.

Tow is done at the many towsites placed everywhere in Denmark. With a machine, like a scooter, El, car og hydraulic, the pilot is liftet to altitudes from about 350m to 700m. To stay up there like the big birds, thermal upwinds most be found.

Scooter optræk

Scooter Towing

Vores efterhånden færdige scooter-optræksmaskine, startede egentlig som en skør ide en eftermiddag med for lidt vind og for meget tid..som så mange gange før tog vi på stadion og groundhandlede...og ja så sgu vi da prøve et direkte træk med scooter..det virkede jo fint..igang på tegnebrættet...men det fede ved denne maskine er at den er nem at bygge og en billig optræksløsning....vi har selvfølgelig overdrevet lidt med gejl.osv.. og nogle smedetimer..Det dyreste er linen som vi købte brugt for 1000kr..en gammel trailer blev lynhurtigt sponsoreret af en paraglider der var vild med ideen..og så en gammel scooter 45...Alt er bygget efter forskrifterne i DHPUs håndbog for optræksmaskiner...

The scooter-machine, really started ouy....startede egentlig som en skør ide en eftermiddag med for lidt vind og for meget tid..som såmange gange før tog vi på stadion og groundhandlede...og ja så sgu vi da prøve et direkte træk med scooter..det virkede jo fint..igang på optræksløsning....vi har selvfølgelig overdrevet lidt med gejl.osv.. og nogle smedetimer..Det dyreste er linen som vi købte brugt for 1000kr..en gammel trailer blev lynhurtigt sponsoreret af en paraglider der var vild med ideen..og så en gammel scooter 45...Alt er bygget efter forskrifterne i DHPU´s håndbog for winches....

Sommeren 2005 blev den første prototypeudsat for utallige test på Nr.felding startplads og Lindtorp flyveplads...med scooter..får man det nemmeste og blødeste optræk for pilot og alle med lidt instruktion kan agere spilfører...simpelt og behageligt...man skal faktisk ikke rigtig gøre noget.. Den første var lavet af en EU 45 Scooter....

In the summer of 2005 the first prototype was udsat for utallige test på Nr.felding startplads og Lindtorp flyveplads som vi er ved at få en aftale i hus med... de var alle vilde med vores ide...og ind til videre...med scooteren..før man det nemmeste og blødeste optræk for pilot og alle med lidt instruktion kan agere spilfører...simpelt og behageligt...you dont have to do much...

video

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Hydraulisk Optræksmaskine - Pay-in/Pay-out;

Hydraulic Pay-in/Pay-out Winch

Optræk med Hydrauliske Spil er uden tvivl den nemmeste og sikreste metode, men også den dyreste. De er ikke så svære at konstruere.
Download Hydraulic Winch Circuit Description og Operations Manual(PDF)
Ved Hydraulik bestemmer man line belastning og systemet holder det samme træk under optræk og går automatisk imellem payin og payout hvis nødvendigt.

Hydraulic Payout Winch - Far and away the favorite winch. For pilots, it provides one of the smoothest tows to altitude available. Far to many people consider hydraulics to complicated, which is a shame, because a properly designed hydraulic winch provides one of the smoothest, safest, most trouble free towing systems available anywhere. Download the
Hydraulic Winch Circuit Description and Operations Manual by clicking this link.(PDF)
The winch automatically switches into the payout mode. It gains the benefits of tension controlled towing which makes them safer to operate.

Over vand kan en ældre 16 fod båd med 90 HP bruges.Høj Lineføring er at foretrække.

Here's all it takes to get into towing over the water. An older 16 foot boat with a 90 HP outboard motor that is capable of speeds around 34 M.P.H. You can find them all over for under $3000. Note the tracking head sticking up above the boat. There is a swivel mounted on the top that allows the line to freely swing 360 degrees around the head. It is high enough to make it unlikely to get tangled with the operator or passenger, and the free swiveling action prevents entanglements and makes circle towing in small lakes a breeze.

Here you can see a couple different views of our standard winch mounted in the boat. The 2" tubing framework is 22" wide by 50" long, and the corner that supports the tracking head extends up 34". The drum mounts on a hydraulic motor in the upper left corner of the frame and extends 3 1/2" out from the side of the frame and 8" off one end. The standard version shown is a complete system that easily mounts in the back of a pickup, on a boat, or other vehicle. It is held in place by 4 bolts, one on each corner. Provisions have been made in the design to allow for easy mounting by including slotted mounting locations as well as individual bolt holes on all corners. Note the picking eyes welded to the frame. The winch isn't particularly heavy, but at around 300 pounds it's a lot easier to use a hoist to lift it that your back.
Operation is simplicity itself, which is what makes this winch design so reliable. A 12 1/2 gallon tank contains hydraulic fluid. This fluid flows to a hydraulic motor with a drum directly attached to the output shaft. 5500' of 1100 # test Spectra line is wound on the drum, and the line routes through a pulley, up to the tracking head swivel, and then out to the pilot, who is attached to the line through a drogue parachute (held collapsed under line tension) a weak link, and a release system. When the pilot is ready to launch, the tow vehicle or vessel accelerates away from the pilot at a speed around 25 M.P.H. and the hydraulic fluid flows freely from the tank, through the motor and back to the tank through an oil cooler. There is no tension on the towline at this point. Once the pilot has their glider cleanly overhead, the tow technician rotates a knob on the winch control panel which causes a restriction in the fluid flow from the motor back to the tank. This in turn causes the hydraulic system pressure to rise, increasing the resistive torque on the motor and hence builds tension in the towline. As the tension rises, the pilot is gradually and smoothly pulled into the air. Once the pilot is safely airborne, the tow technician adjusts the hydraulic system pressure to a predetermined value, which will cause a constant tension on the towline. As the tow continues the pilot pulls line off the winch, while the vehicle moves forward, and consequently climbs smoothly away from the earth. Flying through a thermal or wind gradient has no effect on the tow tension because it is automatically controlled. Rather than getting big surges with every bump, or gust, the line simply spools off faster or slower, which affects the climb rate slightly, but allows nice smooth tows to altitude. Once the pilot has reached the altitude desired, the rewind motor is started up, the pilot releases, and the motor turns a hydraulic pump which rotates the drum in the opposite direction, causing the line to rewind. The parachute on the end of the line that was hooked to the pilot is no longer under tension, so it inflates causing tension on the towline to make a nice tidy rewind and preventing the line from landing in a less than opportune location. Simplicity itself, isn't it.
This system doesn't use a level wind because it is simply not needed. The winch drum is only 1.9" wide and has a diameter of 28". It can hold up to 6500 feet of line, and because it is so skinny, and the line is rewound under tension, it stacks very neatly and tightly on the drum. Once the pilot is safely off the ground the system tension is set, and essentially will remain unchanged during the flight. O/K, the technically minded will note that the torque on the system has to change as the line spools off the drum, and the effective line diameter is reduced. In theory it would require the operator to reduce system pressure as the torque increases with a decreasing line diameter. After extensive testing and simulations, we determined the final drum size for a very specific reason. It is the same reason we use a very high quality towline, manufactured specifically to our specifications. As the line length increases, the drag imposed on the line by moving through the air also increases. By sizing the components to compensate for this effect, we were able to perfectly balance the flight loads, drag, and torque loads so that once set, the system pressure never needs to be changed. Simplicity of operation and reliability.
Here's a couple photos of some customers who have made pretty slick installations in their boats. The blue Capri is owned my Midnight Sun Paragliding and operates out of Alaska. The other boat is operated by ProTow and the picture just happens to show our favorite winch operator, Ann O'Conner. This lady is one heck of a fine pilot, and when you get on the other end of the towline, it would be hard to find a more experienced Tow Tech. She gives some of the best, smoothest rides aloft with absolute precision.

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Power

Paramotor-Powered paragliding-PPG

Gode råd og spørgsmål der skal stilles inden køb af paramotor
-Prisliste for reservedele.
-Hvor lang er garrantien og hvad dækker den.
-Hvordan får jeg paramoteren repareret.Timeløn?
-Kræver Paramoteren specialværktøj ved almindelig vedligeholdelse.
-Hvem betaler for forsendelse ved brug af garrantien.
-Medfølger der Manual til moteren
-Hvad vejer Para-moteren alt inklusive.De fleste vejer omkring 25kg(tørvægt)
-Antal HK? I Danmark er 25HKdet maximalt tilladte. 17-25HK for pilotvægt over 80kg er bedst.
Manuel eller Elektrisk start eller begge dele?
-Har motoren kobling, som gør at propellen står stille og motoren er lettere at starte, kan elektrisk start evt udelades.De fleste piloter slukker ikke deres motor i luften.
Hvilken propel skal man vælge?
-Komposit propeller i Carbon eller glasfiber er lettere, mere sikkert men også dyrere.En komposit propel splintrer ved kontakt med legemsdele, hvorimod en træpropel i værste tilfælde kan skære en arm af.
-2 bladet propel har mindre overflade og derfor mindre modstand.Det gir en smule bedre topfart.
-3 bladet propel kan med mindre diameter give samme thrust som en tobladet.Mere effiktivt acceleration og stig.Den er dyrere i anskaffelse men nogle modeller har udskiftelige blade, hvilket kan gøre den billigere på sigt. What you need to know before you buy a motor.
Ask the following questions:
-Can you send me a price list for replacement parts for your motor.
-How long is the warranty and what does it cover?
-Does your dealership have mechanic to do the repair work.
Some of these engines require very special tools to work on them and not every mechanic has them or can get them.
-What is the hourly charge.
-Who pays for the shipping and handling while under warranty?
-Does the motor come with a tool kit?
-Is the owner manual updated? It could be the owner manual for the motor which they first came out with.
-How much the wet motor weighs with all options?
That means electric starter, Gas, harness ready to fly. If it weighs over 60 lb don't buy it if you are going to foot launch.
What kind of static thrust? if less than 100 lb and you weigh more than 180 it is not a good match.
-What should be the HP of the motor?
It should be any where from 17 to 25. Too much power creates too much torque. Too little power well, you can't get out of bad situation fast enough.In Denmark 25 Hp is max allowed
-What about the diameter of the prop?
Too small of a prop will not give the thrust you need. So the prop should be more than 36 inches. Unless you are very small person. If the prop is too large i.e. 50 inches or more then your prop guard is too big to clear the risers in forward launch. You have to be a very good pilot to use that big of a frame.
-Does the motor have electric start?
I prefer paramotors with the electric start, and should be installed if no clutch. Usually electric start is about 1-2kg extra! On landing you should always kill the motor and land as if you were paragliding. This way if you fall you don't break the prop or get your lines caught in the prop. Many times pilots fall on one side and bend the prop guard. The turning prop hits the bent part and breaks. Some times you may have to restart your motor to try your landing again. If you find thermals you can kill your motor and thermal for a while. Also if you fly to a ridge and it is soar able, then you want to kill the motor and save your gas for the trip back.
Does the paramotor have a clutch?
Clutch keeps the prop still up till surtain rpm.This is a great safetyfeature, and makes it easy to pullstart the engine, even mid-air.On smaller engines you could leave out the electric start feature if they have a clutch.
-When the motor is cold will it start without the choke?
After all while ridge soaring or thermalling your motor is getting cold. How the heck are you going to use the choke to re-start the motor in the air. -Does the motor have internal decompression?
That is an old design which basically a flap in front of a small hole allows the compression to be less at startup. But the carbon built up will make this obsolete after a few hours of use. You have to take the motor apart to clean the valve. I would not buy a motor with that kind of decompression valve.
-Does the motor have external decomp valve?
Motors like DK Whisper and Whisper Plus have that. It works great with electric start. But you do need to take them off once in a great while and clean them. It is very easy to do it. I would buy a motor with that kind of decompression valve. Just make sure if the motor has electric starter, it automatically press down the decomp valve for you. While up there in the air with the motor on your back there is no way to press the decopm valve down to restart the motor! So it has to have the mechanism to do it automatically.
Some motors are without decompression valve all together. They are the best. Of course the recoil starter has to be a little bigger so you can hand pull start it. Also the electric starter has to be stronger to roll the motor over. But then you don't have to mess around with the problems associated with decomp valves. Remember they can leak the precious pressure too without you knowing it. What kind of harness does the motor come with?
DK harness are very nice. But they don't allow you to do too much weight shifting. Then again you have to remember if you are flying with motor you are not that much into using those skills any way. Make sure the hang points are on the harness and not on the motor frame. On some old design the hang points are on the frame of the motor. If due to fatigue the metal frame breaks you will separate from your motor and fall! The new design if something goes wrong the motor will fall and you stay with the wing. How many cylinders should your motor have?
One cylinder will do. Two and three are just smoother. But there are more parts to break and replace. There is a little bit of safety factor in two or three cylinders. If one spark plug quits working the other one will work till you get out of a bad situation.
-What kind of prop?
Composite props are better than wood. But more expensive if you break them. Find out how much for a new prop. Make sure the price is for the whole prop and not for one blade!!!
-2 BLADE V's MULTI-BLADE PROPS Although multi blade set up’s look great and allow the blade length to be shortened, they usually provide slightly less thrust in top speed when compared to two blade standard props, due to the increased drag from more blades. When a two blade provides less thrust it is because the two blade is not operating at it full potential (It is not within the prop powered band, or the incorrect prop is being used in conjunction with the incorrect reduction ratio or pipe system). They are however smoother running due to the increased blades and should the blade be variable/ground adjusteble , then this eliminates the need for different props should different engines be flown. It also makes mending easier as only the damaged blade need replacing. The noise is also reduced with 3 blade.
I was initially attracted to a 2-blade design for the simple intuitive reason that there is less blade area and therefore less drag. We have all heard that 3-blade props improve climb, it's a popular retrofit for Cessnas and Bonanzas, but since I was more interested in improved cruise speeds and not necessarily improved climb (RVs climb pretty darned well already!), this became my initial direction. As I learned more and more from various sources however it turns out there's a very small difference in efficiency with the 3rd blade, something on the order of .5% loss due to the increased area. There are also offsetting factors in favor of a 3-blade design. When I distill down what I've gleaned I get the following summary.

2-blade props:
Less wetted surface
Less drag, improved cruise and top speed, especially with slippery airframes where it would be a higher portion of total drag
Fewer blades
Less weight (in theory, not necessarily in practice)

3-blade props:
More blade area
Better dissipation of engine vibration
More area to transfer power to the air: faster acceleration, improved climb Less horsepower per blade
Lower amplitude pulses, less vibration
Frequency of pulse passes increased
Frequency of noise shifted up (at 2,700 rpm 2-blade = 5,400 passes, 3-blade 8,100 passes): less perceived noise in cockpit.

If you are planing to go to 10.000 feet above see level, you need a big tandem motor. Don't believe what they tell you about the ceiling of the motor. That just means that the motor can operate at that altitude. It won't climb there. And if it did, it will run out of gas by then! Most paramotor use the Solo 210 as their engine. When comparing prices make sure you know what kind of carburetor and exhaust system you are getting. Tuned exhaust are very useful. Carburetors with floatxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Aluminum frame is just as good as stainless steel. If you crash both of them will bend and break. Make sure the frame is not one piece. It cost more to replace it. After all if you bend the prop guard, you should be able to change just the prop guard. Some of these motors are built like cars which after an accident you have to replace the whole side of the car because of a dent.
-Number of props? The more blades the slower the prop has to turn to generate the same thrust. So it will be quitter. But then you will have more weight and expense when you need to replace it.
Direct drive or reduction gear? Direct drive does not make sense. For paramotering reduction gear is the only choise. One belt or two belt does not make a difference. -Fuel tank above the motor or below the motor? Above makes xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
-Price of the motor?
You get what you pay for does not always apply here. You get what you did your home work for. So take your time. Try to check out as many motors as possible. Read the " Motor Rant and Rave" Page on this site. Email some of the people who have had problems. Find out how the dealer treated them. How much it cost them.... Remember if you buy a motor which the engine is build by the motor manufacturer, you are at their mercy when you need the parts. For example; you can buy Solo parts from many dealers. DK parts are sold by DK dealers only. Another important issue; some engine cylinders are designed to be repaired if scratched or scored. Some are not. So it is very important to know that. Most motor cycle shops can repair your cylinder. But if this is what your dealer says about your engine "The crack can not be welded. You need a new crankcase. The cylinders are chrome-plated and can not be honed, or polished, only hand-washed and dried. You need a new cylinder". Then you are in it knee deep! For a cylinder to be repairable by any shop, it needs to have a removable head. One piece cylinders are not repairable.
-What kind of wing?
Well if you already have a wing and you are not going to be too heavy with your motor, then you can use that. 20-40 kg overveigh is ok.The more you weigh the worse min sink, but this is uplifted by the force off your engine. If you are new to the sport buy a wing which is easy to launch.(low min speed) .With all that weight on your back who wants to fail a launch and try and try again!
-Risers with trim/reflex?
Trim is for constant accelerating your wing, like adding speedbar.This makes the paraglider into a so called "Reflex" shape, and will make it fly alot faster. The extra speed is creating bigger wing preasure, and makink it more stabil
I realize that one motor can't do all the above and be inexpensive too. But if the pilots are informed then they will pay more to get what they know they need. No one is crazy to buy a cheap motor and fly it knowing that it will quit on them in the air. Or when it comes to the repair job, they are better off buying another motor rather than fixing the one they have. So this page is to inform those who are thinking of buying a motor. Knowledge is power. Exercise it. There are many good motors out there with good people backing them up. Don't buy a motor for its look. Buy it for its performance. As soon as you are 200 feet off the ground all the motors look a like! It is just a fan on your back! But they sure don't act a like. A super tuned exhaust is as ugly as it can be. But it makes your motor perform at its best. It makes it sound quieter. It allows it to have a longer life....
It would be great if a motor could be built to be a beauty without sacrificing the performance. But till that can be done, go with a motor which covers most of the above criteria!

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Flyvesteder Danmark og EU i Google Earth

FlyingSites Denmark and EU

Download Google Earth File

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Knuder

Bind Selv knuden til bremse og accelerator

Knot for brake and acc.

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Sprængstykker - Weak links

Weak links

Sprængstykker - Sikkert den vigtigste del af sikkerhedsudstyret til optræk. Sprængstykket fungerer som en sikring, der reagerer på overbelastning i optræks-systemet. Der er mange faktorer der kan producere extreme og "ikke planlagte" belastninger på piloten. Nogle af overbelastingerne kan være:

-En ukoncentreret spil-fører
-Liner der sætter sig fast i feks træer eller dyr
-Liner der sætter fast i spillet
-Køretøjer eller både der kører over optræks-linen og evt trækker den med sig.
-Kraftig termik
-Fejl input af Pilot

Sprængstykker er som hoved regel 75% - max.100% af din flyve-vægt(pilot/skærm/harness...etc). Feks Gear og glider på 100kg - weak link skal så være på 75kg til 100kg. Weak links er u-undværlige for at forebygge 'overload' af din paraglider,og ubrugelige hvis du ikke kender deres brudstyrke eller opførsel under forskellige forhold.Det er derfor en god ide igennem test at kende sine sprængstykker og deres brudstyrke, især hvis de er bundne.
Sprængstykker forebyger dermed overbelastning af din paraglidier. Belastningerne er store i korte øjeblikke ved tow-optræk, men selv simple manøvre som 60 graders sving belaster paraglideren med over 100%.
Syede sprængstykker af "Dacron" eller "Polyester" har næsten altid den samme brudstyrke, hvorimod de bundne kan variere op til 10% afhængig af kvalitet, længde og knudetype

Weak Links - Probably the most important item in any tow system. A weak link acts like a fuse, in that it responds instantaneously to an overload condition in the tow system.
There are many things that can produce extreme and unplanned loads on the tow pilot.Some of the overloads we have seen:
- an overzealous tow operator
- line dig or jamming of the towline
- vehicles and boats running over the towline and dragging it away
- pilot entering a very strong thermal on tow.

Typically a weak link that breaks at 75% of your inflight load is desired. (ie. If you, your gear, and glider weigh 300 pounds; you should use a weak link with a 225 pound breaking strength).Weak links are essential to prevent overloading your glider, as they limit the maximum force that can be exerted on it to 75% over your normal inflight load. Our experience has shown that towing causes little noticeable wear, and frankly our gliders are exposed to 100% over their normal inflight load when we do a simple 60 degree banked turn. A weak link is useless if you don't know what strength it breaks at in a predictable manner. We use only Dacron or Polyester weaklink line. We are big fans of sewn weak links, since they break in a very predictable manner at the rated strength of the line use to make the link. These are the ultimate in ease of use since they don't require any fiddling to tie, and you know exactly what load they will break at.
Weak links are one of the most important safety features that can be applied to tow launched flight. There are arguments for and against their use, but the most compelling arguments are for their obvious safety benefit.
A weaklink acts primarily as a safety fuse to prevent overloads from being applied to the towed pilot. Under ideal circumstances, the tow operator could foresee every possible development that could occur and react instantaneously to prevent any type of overload from occurring. The real world doesn't work that way. Lines jam, skip off pulleys, get run over by other vehicles or animals, tension control systems fail, operators and pilots alike make mistakes, and meteorological conditions conspire to occasionally overload the system. A properly designed weaklink will blow out before any excessive forces can be transmitted to the pilot or their glider. Tying a weaklink has always been the way most people get by. But when you take some 200 pound test line and tie a knot, at what force does the link break? Different knots, how the knot is tied, and even the length of the line used to tie the knot greatly affect how the link will break.

Bind Selv dine sprængstykker

Tied Weaklinks

De mest almindelige Sprængstykker er på 65kg 75kg 100kg 125kg 150kg 200kg

Most common weak link line is 135, 150, 200, 250, 300 and 400 pound breaking strengths

Mellem Liner- Leader Lines

Leader Lines

Leader Liner er typisk korte stykker af spectra på 5-8m og brudstyrke på 50-70% af hovedline med syedede øjer i begge ender. Linen fastgøres på udløserskærm og det er yderst vigtigt at sprængstykket og leaderlinen kobles sammen med en karabin, da loop mellem liner dobler kraften og kan skære dem over

Leader linen har to hovedfunktioner:
-Afstand mellem pilot og udløserskærm så den ikke åbner i hovedet på pilot
-Som ekstra sprængstykke

Leader Linesare typicallyshort lengths of spectra with sewn eyes on both ends. Typically they are connected between the apex of the drogue chute and the weaklink clip in link. Leader lines serve 2 functions. Primarily they are used to add space between the drogue chute and the pilot. In the event that tow tension is reduced in flight, the drogue chute will inflate. The use of a leader line ensures this happens well in front to the pilot, rather than in the pilots face. We typically use a leader line of lower breaking strength than the towline and use it as a "backup" weaklink for those applications where a pilot elects not to use any type of safety link. Sewn leader lines are 15-25 foot lengths

Line "Splicing" Teknikker

Line Splicing Techniques

En finger trap lavet med en Fid er den mest almindelige og bedste metode til at forbinde to sectioner af liner, eller til at lave et øje i enden af linen.

A finger trap done with a fid is the most common, and strongest method of joining 2 sections of line, or placing an eye in the end of the line.

Typisk er længden på Spectra line inde i "finger trap" 15-20cm .Skær linen med en kold kniv eller saks i en vinkel af 45-60 grader

Select a Fid appropriate to the line size being spliced. The larger the Fid, the easier it will be to screw the line into the back of the Fid. For very small lines you may find it easier to use a slightly larger Fid and fold the line to get enough bulk to hold the material tight into the end of the Fid. Determine how long you want to insert the material into a finger trap, and cut the material to the appropriate length. Typically Spectra line splices are finger trapped 6 - 8 inches or more. Using a sharp knife, cut the line at a 45 to 60 degree angle. Cutting the line at an angle allows for smooth termination of the line inside the splice. Screw the Fid onto the line by rotating it clockwise while holding the line. Keep rotating the Fid until resistance is felt and a gentle tug on the line won't dislodge it from the Fid. (Please Note - If you use a hot knife to cut the line, cut the line quickly to avoid excess melted material, and be certain to screw all the melted material into the Fid. Leaving some of the melted section exposed may cause it to snag, and ruin the line you are trying to finger trap. Failing to cut off the melted end as you complete the splice will also leave a hard, sharp piece inside your splice that tends to cut strands of line, resulting in wear and premature failure of the line).

Længden af loop er 2-3cm.Lange loops are en smule stærkere end korte

The length of the loop should be 1/2" to 1" in length. Longer loops are slightly stronger than shorter ones.

Styrken på loopet afhænger af længden på den indvendige line, da tow line virker som "Kinesiske figer fælder".Sy loopet med enten bar tack, zig zag, eller alm lige sting tæt på indgangshullet. Syningen må IKKE være lige så lang som hele "finger trap", da den så ikke længere kan selvstramme.

The strength of the loop is determined by the amount of line trapped inside the other one, since the tighter you pull on the line, the harder it grips. It is possible for the line to slide out if the tension is removed from the line so it is good practise to sew the loop using either a bar tack, zig zag, or even a straight stitch close to the entry point. The stitch must not be the length of the finger trap, however, because the stitching would then prevent the line from pulling tight.

For at splice 2 liner sammen, puttes line med Fid ind ca 40-50cm fra enden af den ene line. Den sidste line indføres 1-2cm fra det første indgangshul.En splicing SKAL være meget glat i overgangen, og sys.Som nødløsning kan den splejsede line håndsys

To splice 2 lines together, insert the Fid into one end of the line at a distance sufficient to ensure a strong splice. Insert the Fid onto the remaining short section and open the weave at a point close to where the first intersection occurred. Feed the Fid through the line and exit as shown for a looped line. Snug the center point of the splice up tight, and gently smooth the lines out towards the ends.A properly completed splice will be very smooth at the transition, and this is the ONLY acceptable method of joining a towline, regardless of the style winch the line will be used on.For safety, the line should be stitched on both sides of the joint to ensure it won't come loose.If you break the line in the middle of a towing session you should at least hand stitch a short section to ensure the splice doesn't work loose. If this is not possible, you should finger trap the line for a length of at least 24 inches on either side (leaving a 48 inch fatter spliced section)and sew the line as soon as possible.

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Hovedline

Towline

Brudstyrken skal være på mindst 500kg."Prestretched"-"UHMW PE/Spectra 1000 fibers" optræksline eller "Dynema fibers line" er det bedste til optræk.Nylon eller polypropylene kan ikke bruges da de er flexible

The line must have a minimum breaking strength of 1100 pounds, and it must have low stretch.Pre stretched "UHMW PE/Spectra 1000 fibers" Towline and Dynema fibers are the best for tow. Some of the lines used in the past for towing (primarily because they were cheap) are made of nylon or polypropylene. These are very poor choices for towing paragliders primarily because they stretch, and then recoil; which causes surging on tow and makes towing very uncomfortable to the pilot. Spectra (or Dynema) is the trade name for a highly oriented polyethylene fiber. It has much better life and resistance to wear than Kevlar and can be coated to minimize the degradation caused by UV exposure.